One of the main draws to the Amalfi Coast is the amazing scenery of jagged cliffs towering over turquoise blue water. Imagine taking in that scenery from the top of those cliffs! You won't have to imagine it if you hike the Path of the Gods (or Il Sentiero deli Dei in Italian). The Path of the Gods has been called one of the best hikes in the world and it's easy to see why when you take in the heavenly views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Amalfi Coast. If you are visiting the Amalfi Coast, the Path of the Gods is a MUST do! Be sure to set aside a day to do the hike ending in Positano where you can take a refreshing dip in the water and grab a delicious meal at one of the many Positano restaurants. Sounds like a perfect vacation day to me!
Path of the Gods Basics:
The Path of the Gods runs between the mountainside village of Bomerano and the famous beach town of Positano.
You can hike either direction, but it is highly recommended to start in Bomerano and head towards Nocelle/Positano. The reason for this recommendation is that there is a more strenuous uphill climb if you start in Positano, but also, and maybe more important, is that leaving from Bomerano keeps all of the jaw-dropping views in front of you as you make your way along the path.
The Path of the Gods trail is approximately 4.7 miles (one-way).
It is a moderately difficult hike (if you are a regular hiker). It may be a little more challenging if you don't hike that often or if you have knee issues or other health challenges. I have Lupus and I was able to do it. I just paced myself and took breaks when I needed to. I did start to get tired at the end, but I managed. I am so glad I did it because the experience was amazing! Here is a picture of some of the more challenging downhill sections (and there are some similar uphill sections as well) so you can decide for yourself if it is something you can handle keeping in mind your own limitations.
It takes about 2-4 hours to complete depending on how fast you hike and how often you stop to take in the views (which will be often!).
Because it is mostly along an exposed cliffside trail, it is best to start early. The sun can be intense. Also, don't forget the sunscreen like I did or you will definitely get a sunburn.
Related to the intense sun/heat, make sure to bring some water with you. You may also want to bring some snacks. We didn't worry about it because we had just had breakfast and thought it would only be a couple of hours, but I really wish I had brought water and snacks with me! My daughter Taylor was smart and had her water bottle and was nice enough to share with her unprepared mother. There are some stores in the town of Agerola (where you get off the bus) to pick up supplies. DO IT!
There are no bathroom facilities along the path so make sure to take care of business before you head out. As you get to Nocelle, there is a small place to get something to drink and go to the bathroom, but that is not until the end.
Make sure to wear sturdy shoes. There are lots of smooth trails along the way, but there are also plenty of areas that require walking along rocky paths and climbing up or down rocky hillsides.
Getting to the Path of the Gods Trailhead in Bomerano:
As it is highly recommended to start the Path of the Gods in Bomerano and walk towards Nocelle/Positano, that is what we did and that is what I will talk about here. We were staying in the town of Amalfi so we were already where we needed to be to catch the bus up to the Path of the Gods. If you are staying elsewhere, you will need to get transportation (taxi, bus, ferry) to Amalfi. From Amalfi, you will catch the SITA bus up to Agerola.
A couple of things to know about catching the SITA bus:
You CANNOT buy tickets on the bus or at a ticket window. You must buy tickets at a tobacco shop. In Amalfi there is a tobacco shop right across the street from the bus stop where you can purchase your tickets.
The bus that you need to catch to get to Bomerano will be the "Agerola" bus. You will get off at Agerola and then follow signs that will take you to the hamlet of Bomerano and the trail head for the Path of the Gods.
It was a little confusing to figure out where to catch the Agerola bus. In Amalfi, all the buses just kind of line up in this area and people start gathering. We had to ask around to find our fellow Path of the Gods people. We all kind of stood around until someone figured out that the Agerola bus was loading on the other side. Going back to my first recommendation above, some people that had been standing in line had to then get off the bus and go buy tickets at the tobacco shop and almost missed the bus altogether (and they certainly didn't get a seat!). So make sure to buy your bus ticket first.
I would show up for the bus a half an hour before the scheduled departure because the line will get long (as you can see in the picture above) and if you don't make the bus you will have to wait for the next one which may be a lot later!
The bus ride up to Agerola/Bomerano is exciting in itself as the roads along the Amalfi Coast are narrow and winding. If you can get a seat by a window you can get great views of the scenery and scary views of the traffic!
Hiking the Path of the Gods:
The Path of the Gods hike goes along a cliff-side trail and winds in and around and through the beautiful landscape of the Amalfi Coast. After the bus ride to Agerola takes you up, up, up the mountain, you start the hike perched high atop the coastline. You walk through hillside lemon groves, old stone house ruins, meadows, and patches of forest. I should note that if you are afraid of heights, this may not be a hike for you as there are several spots where the trail narrows and there is a steep drop off (with no railings). I overheard a fellow hiker expressing anxiety about his fear of heights while on the trail.
The first half of the hike from Bomerano is relatively flat. The second half gets more challenging with some significant inclines, cliff drop trails and rocky paths. Luckily there are several places you will want to stop and take in the breath-taking views so you will have time to catch your breath. The sights you can see from this vantage point will make you forget your aching knees and tired legs (well maybe not totally, but in any event it is well worth the pain).
The path is generally clearly marked so you will know where to go. There are usually many other people on the trail so you will be able to follow them if you have any questions. It is great to chat with fellow hikers when you stop to take in the views. You will generally see the same groups of people as you all keep stopping and passing each other along the way.
Once you get to Nocelle, you will see a small rustic cafe where you can grab a cold drink and go to the restroom. From this café in Nocelle, follow signs to catch a bus down to Positano (which is what we did) or you can descend more than 1500 steps if you want to walk all the way down to Positano. We took the bus option, but we still had to walk a bit from the bus stop down to Positano. It was a beautiful walk with great views of the iconic Positano hillside scenery.
Once you arrive in Positano you can grab something to eat (because you will have worked up quite an appetite). We chose to eat at the famous Chez Black. All of the rave reviews are accurate. They have great gluten free options as well. I went with the basic bolognese, but it was anything but basic! I will do a future blog about spending an afternoon in Positano and the dining experience at Chez Black, but wanted to mention it here because it was such a treat after an awesome day of hiking! Chez Black is very popular so I suggest making a reservation. Here is the Chez Black site to check out the menu and make your reservation.
If someone asked me what they should do if they could only do ONE thing while on the Amalfi Coast, hiking the Path of the Gods would be tied with a boat tour around Capri. Both of these things were amazing experiences and highlights of our trip. Hopefully you don't have to pick only one thing and you have time in your schedule to do both. The Path of the Gods is heavenly and should definitely not be missed!