"My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine." -Ernest Hemingway
The second stop on our epic California road trip was Sonoma and Napa Valley. The well-known wine country is 45 miles north of San Francisco and only about an hour's drive (depending on traffic getting out of the city), but there is a local airport if you want to fly right into the region. A getaway to this area is magical and you feel like you have been transported to a whole other world. So grab those cute sandals you couldn't wear in San Francisco, throw on a a cute sun dress and your most stylish sunglasses or sun hat and get ready for an incredible experience!
Where to Stay...Napa or Sonoma Valley?
This is an age old debate...should you go to Napa or Sonoma when you visit the region. I say, why not BOTH? They are only 20 to 30 minutes apart and if you are there for a few days you can easily spend time in each location! The common advice is that Napa is bigger and more commercialized while Sonoma is quainter and more low-key (and probably a tad cheaper). My personal observation is that this description is accurate, but they are both great spots. In addition to the central area in both Valleys, there are also lots of smaller towns within each region that are also charming and would make a great home base while visiting. I recommend doing some on-line research about the various wineries that you would like to visit, map out your choices to see where most are located and then make a lodging choice based on that. You can either stay in one place for the whole time and drive around (or find transport) to explore the entire region or you could choose to spend a night or two in each location.
We stayed at the El Pueblo Inn in Sonoma ( www.elpuebloinn.com ). El Pueblo Inn has been family owned and operated since 1958. It has a good location which is walking distance to local grocery stores and Sonoma Plaza (the shopping area mentioned below). With your stay you also get a good continental breakfast to get your day started, a peaceful courtyard with beautiful landscaping, and a nice pool/hot tub area. Some of the rooms have balconies. The downside was our room was a little dated and dark. However, El Pueblo Inn is very reasonably priced (relatively-most hotels in either Valley are a little pricey) and for the cost, the benefits mentioned above far out-weighed the negatives. Besides, we were really only in the room to sleep so dark is good, right?
There are many, many choices for lodging throughout the Valleys and you probably can't go wrong with most of them.
What to Do:
Uhhhh...wine tasting and tours, of course! See below for just a few suggestions from the hundreds of wineries in the area. I personally would not try to book more than three in a day, but two is probably better. First, you don't have to rush to get from one place to the next and can sit and enjoy the wine and the ambiance of each unique winery. Secondly, you do get full from all of the tastings (especially if you eat at some point in the day-which you definitely should with all that wine drinking!), so you become less enthusiastic to taste as the day goes on.
Hiking-If you (or your liver!) need a break from the wine consumption, there are many hikes in the area to get out and enjoy the beautiful scenery in the Valleys. Disclaimer: We didn't do any hikes during our visit, but I saw information about many and I can only imagine the views from some of the hikes is amazing. Go to Alltrails.com to find descriptions of hikes in the area
Shopping-Sonoma Plaza located in the center of Sonoma is a beautiful 8 acre square park with cute boutiques, gift shops, and restaurants lining all sides of the park. Downtown Napa is a larger commercial district with more stores and fancier dining establishments. St. Helena in Napa Valley also has a Main Street of cute stores and restaurants (including some of the places recommended below!). Make a note that most stores close at 6, so don't plan to shop after a day of wine tasting because the doors will be locked by the time you get there. We learned this from personal experience.
Cruise Around and Take in the Sights-If it is within your budget, I HIGHLY recommend renting a convertible and driving around the area with the top down. Driving through the miles and miles of vineyard lined hills with the wind blowing through your hair and the sun on your face is a feeling like no other. Taking an afternoon to drive around both Valleys (or maybe even over to the coast) is a very enjoyable way to spend the day!
Where to Taste:
There are literally hundreds of wineries in the area. Making a choice of which ones to visit will depend on a number of factors.
What to Consider:
Is there a wine you really enjoy that comes from Napa or Sonoma Valley? If so, you may want to visit that vineyard to learn more about it or to try other varieties made by the winery. Alternatively, you may want to branch out and try new wines that you don't already know about.
What do they offer? Some vineyards only offer tastings. Others have options to take a tour. Does the vineyard offer food? Most have options to purchase cheese or charcuterie boards, but some have more substantial offerings and you may want to visit these places closer to lunch or dinner. See below for description of Charles Krug Winery which had wood-fired pizza we could order with our tasting and it was delicious!
What is the cost? There is a range of costs for the tastings offered at the various wineries. The difference depends on what type of tasting or tour you sign up for, as well as the size or notoriety of the winery. Generally, tastings range from $40-60. The tasting and tour we took at Schramsberg Vineyards was $80. It is important to assess what you get for the tasting fee to determine if it is worth it or not. Sometimes we got less for the more expensive tastings. That was always a bummer.
Do you want to go to a larger, more commercial winery or a smaller, family owned vineyard? I suggest including some of both in your schedule. There is definitely a different vibe to each. The smaller vineyards feel more personalized and relaxed, but there is nothing like the magnificence and grandeur of some of the larger vineyard properties.
Where are your staying? As I noted above, the areas are close so it is definitely doable to get to both. However, if you don't have a designated driver and/or you are trying to do many tastings in a day, you may want to make sure the vineyards you choose to visit are in a more concentrated area.
There are options to take a Wine Train or other organized tours which eliminate this question (and concerns about driving) as they will have pre-arranged stops. If you are overwhelmed by all of the options or don't have a specific preference, this may be the choice for you!
Please note that advanced reservations are required for most, if not all, wineries. This could also impact your choices if you wait too long and can't get a reservation at your preferred vineyards. The only exception would be if you take an organized tour or Wine Train because your reservation will be included with your ticket.
Wineries We Visited:
Below is a description of the vineyards we went to. I started with my favorites first, but it was hard to rank because they all were amazing in their own way.
Schramsberg Vineyards-1400 Schramsberg Rd., Calistoga, CA 94515 www.schramsberg.com
This vineyard was my favorite! So much so, that I joined their Wine Club and will receive deliveries of their wine four times a year. Schramsberg Vineyards is a smaller family owned vineyard that makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir based sparking wines. They were one of the few vineyards that offered a tour along with tasting and I think this really enhanced my experience. The tasting took place in the darkened caves where bottles and bottles of sparkling wines are aging. The Schramsberg Vineyards are home to the first caves dug for wine storage and was the first hillside vineyard in Napa Valley established in the 19th Century. The vineyard was almost destroyed by wild fires recently and as you drive up the hillside you can see from the scorched trees how close the fire came. There is a monument on the property thanking the local firefighters for saving their vineyard. The cave tour was a little more money then other tastings, but you got six tastings and the tour of the caves so it was definitely worth every penny. The tour made it a total experience and I actually learned a lot about wine and wine tasting in general. I highly recommend including this vineyard on your schedule.
Domaine Carneros-1240 Duhig Road, Napa, CA 94559 www.domainecarneros.com
As described on their website, "Domaine Carneros is a singular winery best known as a small grower-producer of methode traditionelle sparkling wine, Pinot Noir, estate vineyards, and a breathtakingly beautiful chateau." The chateau sits high on a hillside and the patio overlooks gorgeous scenery as you enjoy a flight of FULL-SIZE glasses for your tasting. This is where scheduling three tastings in a day became a problem. By the time we got here we were full and couldn't even finish all of our glasses! If you add this winery to your schedule, make sure to put it earlier on the itinerary before you stomach gets too full.
Inglenook-1991 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, CA 94573 www.inglenook.com
Iglenook is the vineyard owned by Francis Ford Coppola (the director of many popular films including The Godfather movies). Fittingly, the entrance and property of the Inglenook winery looks like something from a movie. Funny story-we didn't read our reservation closely enough and couldn't figure out how to open the grand gate. Once we figured that out, we tried to video ourselves driving through the gate but it started closing on us when we where only part way through! Security had to reopen the gate so it didn't close on us. I can only imagine the laughter that was going on in the Security Guard station watching us struggling! Slightly embarrassing, but oh well...you only live once and you have to capture the moment. In any event, we finally got through the gate and took in the gorgeous estate before making our way out to the terrace for our tasting. The woman who managed our tasting was so enjoyable and knowledgable that she made the whole expereince! After the tasting we explored the property a little more and there are exhibits related to cameras and filmmaking due to Mr. Coppola's day job along with the history of the vineyard.
Charles Krug Winery-2800 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574 www.charleskrug.com
Charles Krug Winery is Napa Valley's oldest Winery Estate. It was established in 1861 by Charles Krug, the visionary father of Napa Valley winemaking. It was purchased by the Mondavis, wine-making royalty, in 1943 and for over 75 years and four generations they have been operating the winery. There is some Mondavi family drama related to this winery and the Mondavi estate down the road. Be sure to ask for the details if you visit this winery. The tasting room also has a medallion on the floor that marks the spot of a time capsule buried underneath, so that's pretty cool. The other thing that makes this winery stand out is the delicious wood-fired pizza you can order with your tasting. I would make sure to plan your visit to Charles Krug around lunch or dinner so you can kill two birds with one stone!
Beringer Vineyards-2000 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574 www.beringer.com
Beringer is a large commercial vineyard. The property is definitely beautiful and the wine was good, but this was my least favorite of the vineyards we visited. The cost for the tasting was a little more expensive and you didn't get much for that value. Small tastes, brief description and not much else. Wasn't bad, but wasn't anything special.
Where to Eat:
I sound like a broken record, but there are many, many places to eat throughout Napa and Sonoma Valley and again, you probably can't go wrong with most choices. My friend Ann is a master researcher, so she found some excellent places for us to grab a bite to eat. I should make it clear right now that I am NOT a foodie. Ann and I both decided before we left on this journey that food was not going to be a major part of our budget, so we did not look for or eat at any fine dining establishments. We looked for places with delicious food that were quick and budget-friendly. If that is what you are looking for, I am your girl! Below are a couple of places we found that met the above criteria in spades!
El Molino Central-11 Central Ave., Sonoma, CA www.elmolinocentral.com
El Molino Central is a small Mexican Restaurant that serves tortillas, tamales and fish tacos. They also serve beer and wine to go. Its colorful exterior gives you an idea of the vibe. There is no indoor seating, but they have a large patio area that was very crowded when we got there. Always a good sign! The prices are moderate and the food is excellent. I ordered the Chicken Enchiladas Suizas and was in heaven. Living in upstate New York, I have missed authentic Mexican food. I grew up in Colorado and lived in San Diego for a bit so I am spoiled. Ann ordered the fish tacos and gave them two thumb's up.
Gott's Roadside-933 Main St. (Hwy 29), St. Helena, CA www.gotts.com
Gott's Roadside is a classic American roadside grill that serves a variety of burgers and other traditional roadside options, but it also has vegan choices. They also have some unique California-inspired dishes and seasonal specialities. All menu items use locally sourced ingredients. Their menu also includes sushi, fish tacos, salads and hand-spun organic shakes. There is bound to be something for everyone on their menu. And because it is in Napa, you can also order wine by the glass or the bottle or you can try a Frose, a frozen blend of rose wine, strawberry and citrus. The stars were aligned when we got there because there was no line and we just walked right up to the window to order. However, a few minutes later there was a super long line and every time we drove by Gott's again there was long line. So if you go, be prepared to wait in a bit of a line. But as I noted above, when there is a crowd there is definitely a reason. The food was delicious. Also, keep your eyes peeled for celebrities because I am pretty sure Kristen Chenowith was sitting with a group of LA friends at the table right next to us!
Charles Krug Winery-2800 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574 www.charleskrug.com
Check out the section above about the Charles Krug Winery to see a picture of the yummy wood-fired pizza we had at our tasting. You don't have to pay for a tasting to go in and order a pizza, so keep this in mind as a dining option even if you don't want to sample their wine.
SO BOTTOM LINE-PUT NAPA AND SONOMA COUNTY ON YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET LIST!
If you haven't been to Wine Country yet, start making plans immediately! You won't regret it. Plan that long-awaited girl's trip or romantic getaway, depending on your situation or your mood. Either way it will be an experience you will never forget.